‘It’s not about what’s in season or trending; it’s about organically building a series of clothes you’d keep forever. Forss is all pared-back minimalism in navy jacket trousers and cream top, Molloy is comfortable casual in a Colville logo sweater and baggy jeans, while Chambers is eclectic chic in a long print dress under a khaki parka and a flash of electric blue tights. Future plans for Colville include a homeware collection launching in the spring, and building on its designer collaborations — a crucial part of the brand philosophy — which have so far included jeweller Valeria Bersanetti and shoe designer Matteo Mena. ‘But we don’t pussyfoot around. The pair hatched an idea for a different kind of fashion house ‘over many aperitivos’ and asked London-based Chambers to join them. After Marni’s founder Consuelo Castiglioni left in 2016, ‘it was a natural progression for us to leave too,’ says Molloy, who, like Forss, lives in Milan. “It’s never been about that – we want to say something different with different design.”Before the virus hit, Chambers would fly in from London once a month and the pair would meet up in their studio in the gothic Palazzo Berri-Meregalli. She is also the co-owner of Collagerie along with Serena Hood. colville Co-founders Molly Molloy and Lucinda Chambers Press: colville@tcs-uk.net www.colvilleofficial.com The current spring/summer 2020 collection juxtaposes relaxed tailoring with asymmetric cuts, chunky knits with ruched silk and delicate ruffles with crunchy anoraks made from recycled boat sails.The design duo, known for their niche fusion of fashion, art and craft, had just hosted a series of intimate appointments to unveil their collection for autumn/winter 2020 and share details of upcoming projects with textile artisans around the world. I enjoyed the jobs I did without feeling defined by them. They may be changing the landscape, but seem bemused by the suggestion that they are disruptive challengers taking the industry on with an alternative model. “There’s room for amazing shows, but there are too many of them, and it can feel like a great weight. They prefer to give intimate presentations in their Milan office to individual buyers and journalists. ‘You immediately feel very cool wearing it,’ explains Chambers.Two years later, she is upbeat about the consequences. It’s an interesting dynamic, because you have three such strong identities, but somehow Colville has forged an identity of its own, like a fourth person.’ If Forss, who is Swedish, is the meticulous one with a beady eye for fabrics and detail, and Molloy is the multitasking butterfly, then Chambers brings inspiration from outside and puts it all together. “You just lose too much not being able to touch it and pin it. They also postponed their SS21 June launch to September or “until the world is ready again and wants to see things,” says Chambers.Catching up on FaceTime in late April, the pandemic was the first thing we talked about.
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